As a Black traveler, I was super excited to connect with the diaspora and check out a side of Paris that doesn’t get much love. I stumbled upon a beautiful and complicated community full of life, history, and realness.
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When I first heard about Château Rouge, also known as “Little Africa,” I knew I had to see it myself. Hidden deep in Paris’ 18th arrondissement, this neighborhood is a colorful hub of African and Caribbean culture.
Château Rouge: The Heart of Black Paris
Getting to Château Rouge had its ups and downs, which only made the process of finding this side of the town hit harder. But let me start from the beginning of my journey and how I found the Black side of things.
My Second Day in Paris: A Shocking Start
My second day kicked off with something that threw me for a loop, putting a bit of a damper on my time in the city. I was eager to grab a ride from my hotel and kick off the day, ready to check out the streets and soak up all the cool Parisian vibes. But as I got closer to the car, I was excited, only to be shocked when the driver rolled down his window. He looked at me with an expression I couldn’t quite decipher and suddenly sped off, nearly driving over my foot.
It was a split-second moment, but the message was clear: he didn’t want me in his car, and I was left in shock.
I was stunned and confused, trying to comprehend the sudden turn of events. Was it because I was Black? The question hung heavy in the air, but I couldn’t be sure. Yet, the sinking feeling in my stomach told me everything. I realized the warmth and hospitality I had anticipated were absent.
This wasn’t the welcoming Paris I had imagined, a city of love and light now tainted by an encounter that felt all too familiar, leaving me questioning my place there.
A Jarring Experience at a Parisian Restaurant
Unfortunately, my trip wasn’t without more unsettling moments. At a restaurant, I ordered a flank steak (they called it). When it arrived, it was too chewy and unflavored. I politely informed the waiter, expecting him to return it to the kitchen and season it a bit more to my liking. Maybe I was too American in that sense, expecting the customer to be right.
Instead, he grabbed my knife, cut a piece of the meat, and tried to shove it into my mouth!
He insisted that it was fine. I was horrified and pushed his hand away and asked for a refund and to speak with the manager, but he refused. I walked in to find the manager myself. They offered me a different dish, but at this point, I just wanted my money back. Unfortunately, that’s not something they really do in Paris. Feeling humiliated and powerless, I paid for the meal and left. On my way out, I threw the to-go box in the nearest trash can.
It was a stark reminder that my comfort and dignity were not a priority here in Paris.
Why Château Rouge is a Must-Visit for Black People in Paris
Despite the challenges, Château Rouge reminded me why I travel—to connect with culture, history, and community. Here’s why I believe every Black traveler should add it to their Paris itinerary.
- Authentic African Markets: Walking through the markets felt like entering another world. From colorful Ankara fabrics to shea butter smells and tropical fruits, the Marché Dejean was a sensory overload in the best way.
- A Taste of the Diaspora: The food in Château Rouge is unforgettable. I tried Senegalese thieboudienne for the first time, and it was a flavor explosion. The neighborhood’s eateries have everything from Cameroonian ndolé to Haitian griot, making it a paradise for food lovers.
- A Celebration of Black Identity: Château Rouge is a melting pot of cultures, with communities from Senegal, Mali, the Ivory Coast, Congo, and more. It’s a place where Black culture is celebrated, and I felt an immediate sense of belonging.
- Rich History: Learning about the neighborhood’s history as a hub for African immigrants since the mid-20th century was inspiring. It’s a testament to the resilience and contributions of the Black population in Paris.
Top Experiences in Château Rouge for Black Travelers
If you’re planning a visit to Château Rouge, here are some must-do activities.
- Shop for African Fashion: Discover boutiques with stylish, culturally rich clothing and accessories.
- Explore Street Art: The neighborhood is covered with murals and graffiti that reflect African heritage and social commentary.
- Attend Cultural Events: From music festivals to art exhibitions, Château Rouge is filled with events celebrating Black culture.
- Connect with the Community: Engage with locals and learn about their stories, traditions, and experiences in Paris.
Black Clubs and Nightlife in Paris
For those looking to experience Black nightlife in Paris, the city has a fun underground scene for you.
Clubs like Le Duplex and Nouveau Casino often host Afrobeat, dancehall, and hip-hop nights. These spaces are perfect for connecting with the Black population in Paris and experiencing the city’s energy.
Tips for Navigating Paris as a Black Traveler
Based on my experiences, here are some tips to help you make the most of your trip:
- Stay Aware of Your Surroundings: Unfortunately, not everyone will be welcoming. Trust your instincts and prioritize your safety.
- Connect with the Black Community: Neighborhoods like Château Rouge offer a sense of belonging and cultural connection.
- Explore Black-Owned Businesses: Support local entrepreneurs by shopping at Black-owned boutiques and dining at African and Caribbean restaurants.
- Check Out Black Clubs: Experience Paris’ nightlife at venues that celebrate Black music and culture.
Why Black Culture in Paris Matters
Paris has a long history of embracing Black intellectuals, artists, and activists, from James Baldwin to Josephine Baker. Neighborhoods like Château Rouge continue that legacy, creating a space where Black culture thrives.
For Black travelers, visiting these areas is a chance to connect with a global community and for you to celebrate the richness of the African diaspora.
Being ‘Black in Paris’
Visiting Château Rouge was one of the most enlightening experiences I’ve had as a traveler. It’s a neighborhood that celebrates Black culture in all its forms, from food and fashion to art and history. However, my time in Paris also reminded me of Black travelers’ challenges.
I encountered a shocking incident with an Uber driver, which left me feeling vulnerable and unsettled in a foreign place. Alongside this, I also had a humiliating experience at a restaurant, where the service was less than accommodating, making me question my choice to dine there.
These moments reminded me that the world isn’t always welcoming, and sometimes, travel can bring unexpected challenges that test our patience and resilience.
Château Rouge really shone through all the challenges, serving up amazing service and creating a cozy vibe that made you feel right at home. Their food was absolutely fantastic, bringing together a mix of flavors that blew my mind and stuck with me long after!
In fact, they had the best-flavored food I had tasted on the entire trip, transforming my experience from one of discomfort and bland food to one filled with culinary joy and comfort.
If you’re planning a trip to Paris, I highly recommend adding Château Rouge to your itinerary. It’s not just a place to visit, it’s a place to connect, learn, and celebrate, even in the face of adversity.
